New Brunswick - Campobello to Fredericton and a Touch of Downeast Maine
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Our Route to Fredericton
We were through the no-hassle U.S. Border Control and back in Lubec, Maine with less than a 5-minute wait.
We were so close to Eastport, Maine, we decided to take a little sidetrip. It’s the easternmost ‘city’ in the USA… versus easternmost town or point, a very important distinction. Eastport is the epitome of ‘Downeast Maine’. Why Downeast, you ask? In the days of old, ‘downeast’ was used by sailors to describe the direction sailing ships traveled to get to Eastport from New York and Boston… downwind and to the east.
Eastport was once the Sardine Capital of the World with 18 sardine factories in town including the world’s largest sardine cannery. In fact, the first sardine cannery in America was opened by Julius Wolff in Eastport in 1875. No more, for a number of reasons. The last can of sardines was processed in 1983.
Eastport's Chamber of Commerce offers mementos of the past
We made out way to Eastport’s harbor, parked and walked along Water Street. We poked around, peeking in windows and shops and stopped in The Commons, a gem of a shop with a friendly owner at the till and unique and appealing offerings made by local artists. We bought our share.
There’s a host of shops, restaurants, galleries and coffee shops along Water Street including Maine’s oldest diner, WaCo Diner, celebrating its 100th birthday this year. This small diner has been in business in the same spot since 1924.
The WaCo Diner is the oldest diner in Maine Credit: Only in Your State
“The Fisherman Statue” was a prop for the Fox TV reality show “Murder in Small Town X” in 2001. The statue is now a memorial to Ángel Juarbe, Jr., a contestant and winner of the show, a fireman who died in the World Trade Center attack on September 11, 2001.
The Fisherman in Eastport, Maine
Nerida, a bronze mermaid overlooks the harbor artist:: Richard B.Klyver
It’s a pretty drive along the coast road to Calais, then across the St. Croix River through Canadian Border Control returning once again to St. Stephen, New Brunswick. We remembered as soon as we were through that we’d forgotten to fill up before leaving the States. It was a quick turnaround through US Customs for a gas fill-up and back into Canada.
St. Stephen is Canada’s Chocolate Capital. According to the St. Stephen website, “In 1873 brothers James and Gilbert Ganong opened a grocery store in St. Stephen. When it almost failed, they added candy—then considered a rare specialty item—to the list of wares for sale, and it started flying off the shelves. So, they started to make their own candy to sell in the store. From this modest beginning, Ganong Bros. Ltd. grew dramatically, and by 1930 the company was a major corporation employing 700 people. It’s still a major employer in town.” We checked out the shop and the museum, both were a bit ‘rich’ for our tastes, so we moved on sans chocolate.
When we came to Saint-Quentin, we stopped at a Tim Horton’s (the Starbucks/Dunkins of Canada) for coffee and a bagel. Just up the road was a small park with a sign that announced we were in the Maple Capital of Canada. Who knew?
Past the Mactaquac Dam over the Mactaquac River, we arrived at the Mactaquac Provincial Park. It’s a huge family-oriented park with a maze of roads and campsites. Our campsite was somewhat secluded and perfect for the night.
We ventured into Fredericton, New Brunswick’s capital city, the next morning. Stopping at the Visitor Center, we were issued a free visitor’s parking pass and provided with maps and suggestions for exploring the city. We began our walking tour at The Garrison, “an 18th-century British army base now a National Historic District home to artists’ studios and an outdoor theatre”.
The Garrison National Historic District in Fredericton. The Barracks originally housed ~200 soldiers of the 22nd Cheshire Brigade.
We took a short guided tour at the old Guard House led by a young ‘soldier’ in period costume.
Barrack Square and the Guard House
We walked the pleasant pathway known locally as ‘The Green’ that wanders along the Saint John River (aka Wolastoq) and passed beside The Lighthouse at the Regent Street Wharf. Originally there were 30 lighthouses along the river, but they’re no longer needed due to a buoy system. Constructed in 1989, this lighthouse is a take-out restaurant with a large patio overlooking the river.
Walking along the Saint John River on 'The Green' with 'The Lighthouse' in view
We detoured off the path to check out the Sculpture Garden beside the Beaverbrook Art Gallery.
''King and Queen' in the sculpture garden Artist: Sorel Etrog
Across the street is the imposing Provincial Legislative Building. Built in 1882, this Second Empire architectural style building replaced the original building destroyed by fire in 1880.
New Brunswick's Legislative Building
We didn’t visit the Beaverbrook Art Gallery, but we were delighted by the ‘tire raven’ ( or is it a ‘tire crow’?) that was installed in the side terrace. Evidently, there are several throughout Canada now.
We were also tickled by the note left for visitors about ‘Crackers’, the local pigeon.
Watch Out for 'crackers'!
Next door in the Beaverbrook Green, a Robert Burns statue celebrates the Scottish legacy in New Brunswick.
Robert Burns statue, a tribute to New Brunswick's scottish heritage
The lawn of the Christ Church Cathedral was the venue for the Calthumpiams, a junior acting troupe that presented a very short skit. It was ‘kiddish’ but they looked like they were having a good time and we enjoyed their enthusiasm.
The Calithumpian players
We peeked into the cathedral for a Quick Look. A tour was just concluding, so our visit was short. Considered the first cathedral in North America, Christ Church was built between 1845-53 in the Gothic Revival architectural style. It’s an impressive house of worship.
Christ Church Cathedral
We returned to the river path and crossed the Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge across the Saint John River. Formerly a CN railroad bridge, the bridge connects the north and south sides of Fredericton.
We checked out the The Dooryard on the other side, but the menu at Picaroons Brewery wasn’t to our liking, so we retraced our steps across the bridge for great views of the downtown Fredericton skyline.
The Dooryard
Fredericton city view from the Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge
After a leisure lunch on the patio at Issac's Way, we headed to a local hotel for the night… yet another freebie with points. We save our card points all year and cash them in while we’re traveling.
The morning was lovely as we headed to the Fredericton’s Saturday Farmer’s Market. We parked downtown with our free pass and walked through the Loyalists Burial Ground aka The Old Public Burial Ground to get to the market. Considered one of the most historically important cemeteries in New Brunswick, this is the final resting place for many of the Loyalist families that founded New Brunswick, with graves dating back to 1787.
The Fredericton Boyce Farmer’s Market is considered one of the 10 best in New Brunswick. With heaps of fresh produce and a myriad of crafts, baked goods and local wares, it was an interesting, fun morning excursion. According to Fredericton’s downtown brochure, ‘the market pre-dates the city’s founding in 1785’.
We enjoyed Fredericton, but we had places to go and things to see. Next time, the world’s largest axe, the world’s longest covered bridge and a visit to Mount Carleton National Park.