Port Arthur Historic Convict Site: Part 2

port arthur play a boys life  

Three short plays were presented each day and we managed to see all three during our two-day visit. All were representative of a prisoner's life, their treatment and the reasons they were incarcerated. Part of the dehumanizing process at Port Arthur was to assign prisoners an identification number which replaced their names. The plays seek to humanize the people who lived and died here by telling their stories and restoring their identities as much as possible.

 

port arthur puer point ovens

 

We visited Puer Point by dinghy early one morning. Many people were originally “transported” from England and Ireland for minor crimes such as theft. Boys could be tried as adults at age 7 and theft of a toy was enough to warrant imprisonment at Port Arthur. Puer (Latin for “boy”) Point was established across the bay from the main settlement at Port Arthur as a reformatory specifically for juvenile delinquent boys. It was hard to believe that between 1834-1849, this lovely place with wildflowers in bloom and ducks swimming tranquilly in a marsh was once home to 3,000 boys, some as young as 9. A walkway leads past the scant remains of the buildings. David wandered into the old brick ovens, thick with cobwebs and a-buzz with flying insects.

 

port arthur isle of dead view from puer point

 

The Isle of the Dead, also across the bay, is a tiny, treed island that served as the settlement's cemetery. Convicts, military and civilian officers and their family members were buried here between 1833 and 1877. It was an eerie feeling to see row upon row of gravestones … some leaning, some crumbling. We wandered respectfully and quietly among them, reading the stones, wondering what their stories were and how their lives had ended. Of the 1,646 graves recorded, only 180, those of prison staff and military personnel, are marked.

 

port arthur isle of dead gravestones

 

The prison closed in 1877. Many of the buildings are believed to be haunted. Screams are said to be heard from cells and rocking chairs and objects can be seen moving. Ghosthunters International did a segment here and verified paranormal activity. We visited the Parsonage, said to be the “most haunted” of all the buildings on the site. We didn't see or hear anything paranormal, but in a black-walled, dimly-lit room, with a minister's sermon playing in the background, it certainly felt creepy.

 

port arthur parsonage creepy

 

We ended up spending two full days at the Port Arthur Convict Site including our side trips to Isle of the Dead and Puer Point in the dinghy. It is wonderful, eerie and sobering all at the same time. The cheapest admission price is $32 and includes two consecutive days entry, an orientation tour and a short harbor cruise. Several other activities including after-dark ghost tours are available for additional cost. We would definitely add Port Arthur to our recommended must-see list when visiting Tasmania.

 

port arthur church

 

For more reading on this subject, the crew recommends For the Term of His Natural Life by Marcus Andrew Hislop Clarke, written in 1874. It's a free Kindle download.

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Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

Inauguration Day

President Obama takes the oath for the second time.

Martin Luther King, Jr. Day

A Federal holiday to commemorate a great man. It has been promoted as a day of public service. So go out there and volunteer to do something positive for your community in the name of Dr. King.

 

 

Port Arthur Historic Convict Site: Part 1

port arthur lock
port arthur lock

We'd heard and read about Port Arthur. We'd seen pictures. Nothing, however, could have prepared us for our first views of this historic site as we made our way around the Isle of the Dead and headed towards Mason Cove. A picture-perfect expanse of golden, sandstone buildings lay before us on a green hillside surrounded by thick dense forest … an artist's pallet. Everything appeared so very beautiful, grand and pastoral from our vantage point … a castle or a huge mansion ... until you realized that this was once considered the harshest penal institution in the British Empire.

port arthur penitentiary
port arthur penitentiary

Originally founded in 1830 as a timber station, in 1833 Port Arthur, because of its isolated location, became the site of one of Australia's most shockingly cruel and brutal prisons. Now part of a World Heritage Site, this open air museum showcases the remains of the convict-built buildings which once served as their prison. In conjunction with interpretive guides, plays, museums and tours, the convicts' stories are told, providing distinctive personalities to the men and boys who served life sentences here.

port arthur convict cards lottery of life
port arthur convict cards lottery of life

“Transportation” was a common occurrence in England in the 19th century. Rather than hang, many prisoners were offered the option (or not) of being transported to Tasmania, among other fine localities to serve their sentences. A random playing card was provided with our admission ticket, each of which corresponded to the life of an actual prisoner who had been incarcerated at Port Arthur. We followed instructions which led us through The Convict Gallery interpretive center and allowed us to play “The Lottery of Life”. If we'd been sentenced to Port Arthur, David would have spent his life working in a blacksmith shop and I in the carpenter's shop, if I had been a male.

portarthur convict lottery
portarthur convict lottery

There are more than 30 historic buildings on this 300+ acre site. One of the most outstanding structures is the main penitentiary itself which housed 600+ inmates. This prison was envisaged as “a place of terror” by its builders. Now roofless and windowless with reinforced brick walls, it's easy to conjure up images of leg irons, cat-o-nine tails, inhuman treatment and hopelessness as you wander through. Most of the inmates were repeat offenders, sent here as incorrigibles from other Australian sites. However political prisoners such as Irish activist, William Smith O'Brien, were also incarcerated here.

port arthur penitentiary
port arthur penitentiary

The gothic-style non-denominational Church embodied the importance of religion in the attempt to reform the convicts. Capable of holding up to 1100 people, attendance and participation was compulsory. For some, it was the only social interaction with another human during the week. Much of the creative carving and stonework was done by the boys.

port arthur church
port arthur church

The ruins of the hospital sits on the top of the hill and reminded us of a movie set … all facade and no depth.

port arthur separate prison
port arthur separate prison

Though corporal punishment in the form of flogging was the norm here, a new theory of psychological punishment was also carried out on the worst prisoners in the “Separate Prison”.

port arthur separate prison cells
port arthur separate prison cells

Here men were kept in solitary confinement in small, dark cells. Total silence was observed at all times, even by the jailers. Involuntary coughing or sneezing brought more punishment. Bread and water were the only rations. Prisoners were required to wear a hood over their heads. Next door to the Separate Prison was the Asylum...no comments necessary as to the results of sensory deprivation.

Port Arthur: Part 2 tomorrow.

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Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

Aquarius Day

Aquarians this is your time...here's your horoscope.

National Buttercrunch Day

This delicious chocolate-coated toffee can be made at home  OR alternatively you can just buy some at the candy store and enjoy nibbling on it all day long.

Slaying Dragons

dragon anatomy “Do one thing everyday that scares you” said Eleanor Roosevelt. I'm not quite sure I agree. I need a break every once in awhile from things that scare me, but maybe once a week would be okay. Really what she means is to keep yourself challenged, not necessarily with life-threatening activities, just traveling into new and uncharted territory once in awhile. Don't be afraid to try new things.

 

Dragons chart

Old nautical charts frequently used the expression “Here Be Dragons” for uncharted, unknown territories. When we first moved aboard, everything was new and uncharted … our lifestyle, the boat, living on the water instead of land. Heck, even the terminology was different. It wasn't the toilet any more; it was the head. Dreaming the dream of heading off into the sunset on a sailboat is one thing, but actually doing it ... well, that was downright daunting.

golden dragon

Enter the dragons. We define dragons as anything that causes angst. Fears and anticipation that get your heart pounding, adrenaline pumping and/or stomach churning. There were dragons lurking about the first time we took our new boat out into the Gulf of Mexico; the first time we were out of sight of land; the first time anchoring; the first time waiting for a bridge to open; the first overnight passage which included our first overnight watches alone. It was a world of firsts. Each day was a new dragon to face, a fear to overcome, a dragon to slay.

dragon welsh

Dragons come in all sizes and shapes. It doesn't have to be a heart pounding experience. I'm not a seamstress, so when we determined in Ecuador that the cost of replacing the dodger and bimini was too expensive, we decided that I'd make new ones. The dread was palpable. I'd never done this type of a major sewing project before. What if I screwed it up? What if I wrecked all that expensive fabric? What if I failed? Take a deep breath. Think it through. Do some research. Talk out the plan with David. Start the project … then just a little further. Not right? Tear it out and do it again. Be patient. Just a little further. We ended up with a new dodger, bimini, sail cover, winch covers, hatch covers and more. Because once you slay a dragon, you get a new burst of energy and confidence.

Have we had any heart pounding experiences? Oh, sure. I can't imagine anyone living on a boat crossing an ocean that hasn't had at least one or two hairy times. Squalls come up unexpectedly and the first few times, you wonder what the hell you're doing out in this miserable weather with waves breaking over the bow. We've hit rocks and reefs, dragged at anchor, almost had a dragging ship hit us at anchor. The good thing about experiences like this is that they teach you.

chinatown sydney

We've been told “Oh, you're so brave. I could never do what you're doing.” Wrong! You could, if you wanted to. It might not be your cup of tea, but you could do it. I firmly believe, you can do most anything you want, if you want it enough and are willing to slay a few dragons along the way. Give it try. Do something that scares you today. Slay a dragon.

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Days and Ways to Celebrate

We tend to think of dragons as vicious, cruel and heinous. For many Eastern cultures, the dragon is a symbol of wisdom, power, and luck. In the Chinese culture, they're even portrayed as benevolent and kind. Not quite ready to slay one? How about creating a virtual one to take care of?