Exploring Portland - Victoria's Oldest Settlement

 

Arriving in Portland meant we were out of Tasmania, out of the Bass Strait and out of the Roaring 40's. The way the wind has been blowing, you'd never know it. There have been no worries about insufficient power; the wind generator is definitely churning out amps.

The city of Portland is the oldest European settlement in the state of Victoria. It's a pleasant little city, easily accessible on foot. It's been an important deep-water port for the past 150 years, first as a whaling/fishing port, then sheep and wool. Now it is home to the third largest aluminium smelter in Australia and exports aluminum ingots, mountains of wood chips and mineral sand, primarily to Asia. We have a layer of brown sawdust on the deck to attest to the wood chip exports.

Originally founded by Edward Henty in 1834 (though the Aborigines were here millennia before), there are historical buildings along every one of Portland's main streets … 200 or more in town that date from the 19th century. Most are constructed of dark bluestone with which we were unfamiliar … a marked contrast to the golden sandstone we'd seen in Tasmania. Victorian bluestone is a basalt, quarried locally and one of the most common building materials of the 1850s during the Victorian Gold Rush. We took an historic walk through town, admiring these sturdy, built-to-last buildings. Most are still in use. The English Gothic style St. Stephens Anglican church and the old Town Hall were particularly impressive. Edward Henty's house is still around; we just haven't found it yet.

After a couple of days of sailing, it was good to stretch our legs. We took a long, self-guided walk along the Norfolk pine-lined foreshore to the Portland Botanical Garden. The garden is renowned for its manicured croquet lawns and its dahlias. Though it was a bit early in the season (March-April is prime), we still saw some dazzling dahlias.

We picnicked and observed hundreds of birds enjoying the day. Crazy looking long-billed corellas stared down at us from branches high above. Red wattle birds, honeyeaters and lorikeets flitted from tree to tree. We meandered along a canal and around the Fawthrop Lagoon where scads of waders, black swans and Australian pelicans were at work.

We haven't really shopped in a proper supermarket since Christmas Eve in Hobart. Little ports along the way have offered limited choices at high prices. We waltzed through the aisles of a new Super IGA, an Aldi and a Safeway, all within easy walking distance. What joy! We wanted everything: fresh greens and veggies and fruits, fresh chicken and mince, a loaf of bread that didn't cost $6.

Though we regularly complain about food prices in Australia, I guess it's all what you get used to. After Tasmania, the prices here seem a bargain. The limiting factor for purchases has been how much we can carry in a load, although multiple trips are not out of question. We did pass on the Vegemite and cheese sausage we saw advertised in the local butcher shop though. You gotta set some limits.

Dirty clothes have really been piling up. You'd think with just the two of us, it'd be easy to keep up with laundry, but that's not always the case. The cold weather has kept us in sweatshirts, t-necks, long pants and fleeces, all of which have become rather salt-caked and crusty, in need of major laundering and not easily done by hand. Then there are sheets and towels. It's endless, no matter where you are. We lugged everything to the local laundromat and I babysat four washers while David hunted down some new phone and internet vouchers. There's an “amenities” building in the town center which offers free hot showers. Clean sheets, some exercise, hot showers and freshies … life is good here.

Just as well that we like Portland because based on the current weather forecast, we might be here a few more days. No worries. The Tourist Info Center at the Maritime Discovery Center is only a stone's throw away on shore and it's loaded with info on walks and interesting things to do here. When the wind gods throw you lemons....

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

President's Day

Honoring all the President's of the USA in one fell swoop. A US national holiday making for a long winter weekend. Enjoy!

Drink Wine Day

Now we're talking. This is definitely my day to celebrate. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, chardonnay...so much wine, so little time. Have a glass with dinner tonight.

Portland, Victoria - en route and arrival

 

We had planned an early start, but you know how that goes. It was still dark at 0600 and quite chilly. Our bed was warm. We reasoned there was no rush since the weekly island supply ship was due that morning, usually arrived about 0630-0700, and took up a good portion of the harbor getting situated. We didn't want to meet her in the entry pass. So it was that we got up late, Searoad Mersey arrived late and we had a bit of late start. Schedules tend to elude us.

Portland is an overnight away. The weather forecast called for several days of favorable weather and for once, the forecast held true and, in fact, the icy south winds arrived earlier than scheduled. The exit through the pass was a bit exhilarating, reminiscent of some Polynesian atolls we visited. Waves were crashing on reefs and shoals all around us. Three sets of range markers helped us find the clear, narrow path through it all, to the calm on the other side. There's always a quick adrenaline rush as you commit to the channel and then there are a few minutes of tumultuous water and you're in the clear. Whew!

Dolphins stopped by to bid us adieu. Just a few though, nothing like on our arrival. They're better at welcomes than goodbyes. Then we were skirting along King's east coast, a few miles off, with beaches and heavy surf clearly visible. Far enough off to avoid the shipwrecks and the flies!

The wind was fresh and just off the port beam. We tooled along with jib alone at 7 kts. The southern swells seemed huge (5-6m / 15-20') as we surfed down into a trough and then up again. It was hard to stand watch since things appeared on the wave crests and then disappeared again as we sank into the troughs. The radar and AIS served us well identifying freighters and oil rigs along our path long before we could see them. The wind remained steady and cold through the night. We kept up our speed and track with little adjustment to the lonely jib which was earning its keep. No drama … the best kind of passage. Despite the late start, our arrival in Portland was earlier than expected. We covered the 189 nm, anchorage to anchorage, in ~30 hours. For us, a quick trip.

Three ships were anchored off Portland, another was stationary, waiting for its harbor pilot. A seal greeted us in just outside the port, one flipper up and a peeking head. We had a moment of anxiety when we started the engine to enter the breakwater and the low fuel alarm sounded. It seems with all of our jouncing about during the night, an air bubble crept into the fuel line requiring a quick burp, then all was well.

The harbor is situated behind a large, protective breakwater and turning the corner heading towards the yacht club was a pleasant respite from the rolling waters on the other side. Several ships were loading and unloading at the wharf. Huge piles of wood chips and stacks of timber lined the dock and the air smelled of fresh-cut wood.

We were surprised to see a large, unoccupied marina in the process of being built. Not only was it not shown on our charts, but it took up a good portion of the anchorage area in the northwest harbor. The inner harbor near the yacht club appeared full of local boats and the two free moorings we spotted were not suitable for Cups. We reconnoitered for nearly half an hour before finally deciding on a good spot. The hook set well in the mud. Sano y salvo, the Spanish say. Too tired for exploring today, but tomorrow maybe.

Days and Ways to Celebrate

A daily list of mostly obscure holidays and fun ways to celebrate them.

My Way Day

This is a day to have "your way" (not at Burger King!) Sounds a bit selfish to me, so share a little of the "my" and make it an "our". Make "our" favorite dinner or watch "our" favorite movie. More fun doing things together anyway.